MANDVI — 22.8333° N, 69.3500° E
Mandvi
— India
Five days in a port town on the Gulf of Kutch. Boats, dabeli and a lot of sitting on walls.
Day 1 — 16:20. Arrived on the bus from Bhuj. Everyone off at once, everyone with too many bags. The town smells of sea and diesel and fried things.
Day 2 — 06:50. Boatyard. The dhows are built by eye: no drawings that I could see, just men on scaffolding made of branches, fitting planks that have been shaped by hand. One of them asked if I wanted to buy a boat. I said not today.
Day 3 — 13:00. Too hot to do anything, so did nothing, on a wall, in the shade, for two hours. Watched a goat try and fail to get into a shop.
Day 4 — 19:30. The beach at dusk is a whole town out at once. Camel rides, corn on a stick, a man selling balloons shaped like cartoon characters that have been lightly altered for copyright reasons.
Day 5 — 08:00. Bus back. Sand in everything.
Worth remembering
- The boatyard, early, before the heat.
- Dabeli from the cart nearest the bridge. Not the one with the queue.
- Walk the beach at low tide all the way to the windmills.


